Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
